Pineland and the Home of the Calusa

Tuesday started off stormy, but by mid-day the bad weather had moved to the east and the sun started breaking through the clouds. After lunch at Panera (St. Louis Bread Company to those back home) we set out for Pine Island, which lies north of Sanibel/ Captiva between the mainland and the Gulf of Mexico.

Pineland is the modern name for a site now on the National Register of Historic Places. It encom- passes what remains of a huge complex that was the home of the Calusa Indians for more than 15 centuries. The shell mounds have been excavated and studies of the artifacts continue at the Randall Research Center. The 200-acre complex is on the western shore of Pine Island, facing Pine Island Sound.

Interpretive signs appear all along the Calusa Heritage Trail that is 7/10 of a mile in length and easy to walk. We were amazed not only by the history of the place, but by much of the vegetation. These huge gumbo-limbo trees surrounded one of the highest mounds, where the home of the chief is believed to have been built.

On our walk we also came upon a large example of a strangler fig, although we have seen these many other places in Southwest Florida as well. The tree is a parasite and sends its roots down from the top of the host plant.






For mid westerners, it is a treat to find a wild red flower blooming in early March, anywhere. But I looked in vain in the Audubon guide to find the name of this one.

The top of another residential mound gave us a good view of Pine Island Sound. It was raining lightly and we debated whether to continue on the trail or go back to the car. Since it was a warm rain, and there was one very large umbrella for the four of us, we pressed on.

Light moving across the sound gave us a clue the rain would end soon. The Calusa were not farmers, but fishermen. Their society was healthy and they produced painted and sculpted wooden artwork that is considered among the best in North America. Having come from Oklahoma and familiar with the Five Tribes, I learned a lot at this site about a tribe I had never heard of before.

In addition to vegetation we saw interesting bird life. I'm used to seeing a solitary ibis feeding here and there along waterways down here. But this little flock was checking out something in the grass while one lone ibis stood sentinel in a tree 50 feet above them.

The Calusa were also engineers. They build a system of canals that once connected Pine Island Sound with waters on the eastern side of the island, facing Cape Coral. Canals were used to channel water and make it possible to build on dry land, much as subdivisions are still built in Florida today.



The Spanish discovered the Calusa when they conquered Florida. They tried without success to convert them to the Catholic faith. Eventually disease and war took a toll on this once powerful people. By the late 1700s and into the 1800s, white settlers moved in and started farming. A few citrus trees and trees like this starfruit are reminders of that era. As development continued, efforts were made to purchase part of the ancient site and turn it into the study and preservation site that it is today. An admission donation of $7, $5 for seniors or children, is requested.

As we walked along the trail, we were conscious of bird cries, and also saw a large bird swooping around. Several nest platforms had been put up, and we saw Mrs. Osprey in this one. She scolded us as we went past.

Soon we were being scolded from another direction, and we spied Mr. Osprey high in a tree, with his lunch. We hope he shared some of it with Mrs. O, but we aren't sure. He was also unhappy that we had disturbed his meal and scolded us as well.

Across the road from the Calusa Heritage Center is Tarpon Lodge and Restaurant. It has been here since 1926 and is open daily. We stopped in for a drink and to relax before heading back to Ft. Myers and some delicious homemade whole grain spinach and feta pizza that Doug made for supper.

Today (Wednesday) we thought we might go to the Cypress Slough, but it was a little too windy and cool for the boardwalk and Norm's allergies seem to be acting up a bit. So we went to a quilt shop instead: Quilter's Hangout in North Ft. Myers. It is definitely worth the trip. Over 6000 bolts of fabric, classes, and lots of free advice. I bought only 1-1/2 yards of a print that caught my eye for a gypsy bag, and some thread, and a few other notions. If I had an extra suitcase and an unlimited bank account, I would have gotten more. Tonight we went out to dinner at Crave, great home-style food with a gourmet touch, and then had ice cream at Cold Stone Creamery. Now I'm finishing up this blog and getting ready to pack a little before going to bed. Tomorrow we say farewell to the relatively warm and sunny southland and head home.